ROCK SPRINGS — Chefs trained in the culinary arts are a rarity in these parts, let alone a seasoned chef whose cooking experience varies from a remote Alaskan lodge to an operation that serves a campus of 80,000 people each day.
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Meet Chef Cordova
Chef Larry Cordova has cooked his way around the world and these days finds himself working with the Johnson Restaurant Group in Wyoming and spending some of his time in Rock Springs.
Cordova has been working with the Holiday Inn’s catering and banquet staff, developing menus and manuals until he makes his next stop rotating between the several restaurants in the Johnson Group.
He has created the culinary spreads for several large catering events in Rock Springs, including the New Orleans-themed cuisine at the Actors’ Mission Mardi Gras gala.
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Cordova is the corporate executive chef for the Johnson Restaurant Group, which includes Casper eateries like FireRock Steakhouse, J’s Pub & Grill, Wyoming Ale Works, and Johnny J’s.
It also includes the Old Chicago in Rock Springs and a few other restaurants in Montana and Nevada.
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Always on the go
The chef sees coming to Wyoming as more of a reprieve from the hectic life he lived as corporate executive chef of Microsoft, a $1.5 billion food industry with some 90+ dining destinations.
“I did that for almost seven years and wanted to take a break,” said Cordova. “Two radios strapped to your hip 24 hours a day and people waking you up at 4 am. The set of keys weighs 10 pounds because you’re all over the campus.”
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From Nebraska to Wyoming
Cordova went to work for the Miletta Vista Winery in Eastern Nebraska, where he got the kitchen started and developed the staff. There, he said, he got the experience of working with young people in remote areas who had little experience in the culinary arts.
“These remote areas, such as this, they’ve never been exposed to high-end cooking and high-end details. You take these kids and take them under your wing. You show them techniques and get them passionate about cooking,” he said.
“I taught one girl who was a 16-year-old farm kid and taught her how to do desserts and she just flourished,” he said. “You see these kids light up, so happy with what they’re doing and making. It’s such a reward.”
Chef Cordova said he has developed a management style that is as much about the people as it is about the food.
“The days of screaming and yelling and throwing things around the kitchen are over,” he said. “Without your staff, you’re nothing. Absolutely nothing. You have to intrigue them and enlighten them and empower them.”
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His First Chef Was His Mother
Cordova’s cooking history and love of food goes back to learning from his mother, who was both a professional bowler and caterer. He was serving hors d’oeuvres at riverboat parties at a young age.
“My mother was an amazing chef and socialite,” he said. “My mom always had something cooking on the stove. The food was amazing. That’s how I learned.”
His extensive travel and work experiences have given him a wealth of knowledge to pass on to those he mentors in the kitchen.
“I know well over 60 styles of European cooking, different types of cooking from all over. And it’s all ethnically correct,” said Cordova.
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The Restaurant Potential in Rock Springs
As far as the Johnson Restaurant Group’s future plans, Cordova wasn’t able to say if they were planning on expanding more restaurants into the Sweetwater County area.
What he did say is that there is a great market here for different types of restaurants. He said we have the interstate going through town and plenty of local demand.
“There is opportunity here. No doubt about it. If somebody came in with a good head and put out some good food, they could do very well.”
– Chef Larry Cordova
“I think people are getting tired of Chinese and Mexican food here in this town. They need a little versatility. I’ve been talking to several people here in the area who would love to see some different style of foods. I think it would be very successful. I think people get tired of the same-old, same-old,” said Cordova.
The chef said he thought a higher-end steakhouse or a higher-end type of international food would flourish here. “A home-style breakfast place is needed, as well,” he said.
As for what he eats himself? “That’s the irony of being a chef and cooking for people all day and working crazy hours. You get done with work late at night and go get Panchos,” he said with a laugh.
